New Shoes and more

Before I started to climb my shoes/boots of choice were Dr. Martins. Long story from my past life. Anyway. After I started to climb I have noticed that my view is shifting. First thing after the Mythos I got were 5.10 approach shoes (Clogs), that I got on sale. I can't say I like them much, but I probably wear them 90% of the time now. Still thinking about new approach shoes I saw at Red Rock Rendezvous, but today I finally went "just" to see Vibram FiveFingers 

and... well, I have them now and already tried to walk, drive, run and traverse. They are so cool, I want another pair!

But what I really wanted to say in this post,  is that in the gym I tried to spend as much time on straight-arm climbing as I could handle. After that I tried to climb same old 5.11a and I don't think I felt the difference, but I definitely felt something. Also blind-climbed 5.10a, that was fun. I think I should start to systematically work on my technique. Let it be so.

Oh, yeah. Since this week, on toprope I can finally climb that route without falling (usually after I fail to start for a couple of tries). 

climbing vocabulary: free climbing

I am sure you have heard it before. I constantly do. This story  (http://abclocal.go.com/wpvi/story?section=news/local&id=6088297) is just a recent repetition. I also constantly hear it in the gym. People do not understand what a free climbing is. The term free is very confusing to those who do not pay attention but just hear it from somewhere.

Climbing can be free from aid, free from falls, a rope-free and whatelse. You just can't take such a general term and hope it will stick only to a specific context. 

what the hell

I hardly understand my low performance yesterday.  I guess I skipped lunch, but it shouldn't have been that bad. Considering that eventually i wrestled my way up. Just a slight turn of hips, shift of balance can do as much as giving you way up where you had miserably failed for 4-5 times? I don't think I have changed my footholds. Anyway, I understand now how much I don't understand and don't feel at all.

I also think about visiting a local SCS competition. Maybe just as an observer, since my partners can't lead/lead belay..

5.11

For some reason I have a memory of a successful attempt to climb up 5.11a in the end of January. But considering the fact that I spent last 4 months struggling with 5.10s it doesn't make any sense.

I usually spend from 6 to 9 hours a week in a gym. And while until recently I was able to climb 40-50 feet 5.10c routes without falls I could not do  the same with 5.10d. 

So, yesterday I was able to finish never before tried 5.11a with 3 or 4 falls. And some old familiar 5.10d without any. I had big problems starting both of the routes. But I do feel a huge progress from just a couple of weeks before. Yet I never stop laughing at the numbers.

beginning

I started to climb when I was 9 or so. Climbed exposed strips of wood inside the apartment building I was living back then. Fell approximately 2 meters and could not talk for 5 minutes but otherwise was fine. I think I was impressed by Wolfgang Güllich  climbing in Yosemite videos, but can't say for sure. Before and after that I climbed trees, fences and what else, but never rock.

Next attempt to join climbing was maybe 11-10 years ago. One of the colleagues at that time climbed Everest and I believe I expressed the desire and he willingness to go teach me some climbing skills outdoors. That never happened for whatever reason.

And now for 5 month or so I lick plastic in the gym, occasionally letting myself play outside.

I've been having various blog posts about this struggling for some time. But being tired of LiveJournal and lazy/occupied to write my own blog engine decided to create a dedicated blog.

At this stage I probably can climb any 5.10c in the gym without falls, practically have sufficient sport rack (but no real leading skills) and ropes (70m Mammut and ~40m Sterling). Run for 15 minutes without loosing my breath, can hang for 5 seconds from the lower pocket of the Metolius Rock Rings, do a set of 80 pushups and maybe 10 pull-ups. When I started in November I maybe could do 5.7 with just a couple of falls. So, essentially I am very far from where I see myself in 5 years :)